As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. The better affinity comes from the acetyl groups that act as tiny "anchors" to attach the HA molecule to the skin. Similar to other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. The common thing between all versions is, that unlike most normal triglyceride oils, jojoba esters have superior stability, provide non-greasy emolliency and are readily absorbed into the skin. Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tail part that makes them absolutely non-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. Chemically speaking, it is ethoxylated Cetearyl alcohol, meaning that some ethylene oxide is added to the fatty alcohol to increase the water-soluble part in the molecule. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives. In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Thanks to this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of traditional preservative or it might even be able to completely replace them. A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. The retinoid family is pretty much the royal family of skincare, with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging ingredient tretinoin. A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! The key ingredient in Hada Labo Gokujyun range is Super Hyaluronic Acid, which is often known for its superior moisture retention properties. It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It's free of comedogenic components, allergens, gluten, sulfates, fungal acne feeding components, silicones, polyethylene glycol (PEG) and synthetic fragrances. See the list below for … Below we list some of our favourite and best-selling Hada Labo Skincare Products to buy and try. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula. A sugar beet derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. We would add especially during the day! It’s used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, it’s also sebum regulating so it's a perfect ingredient for problem skin products. Beta-Glucan is a nice big molecule composed of many smaller sugar molecules (called polysaccharide). At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy). A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative. Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid, where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. Blended with red and black iron oxides, it is essential in all "flesh-toned" makeup products. Apart from the general controversy around parabens (we wrote about it more here), there is a 2006 in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) research about methylparaben (MP) showing that when exposed to sunlight, MP treated skin cells suffered more harm than non-MP treated skin cells. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. Bella Vita Anti Aging Reviews Murad Anti Aging Moisturizer Expiration Date Anti Aging Face Mask With Egg. It’s a yellowish powder with a nice sweet smell. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It's a cheap, effective and well-tolerated ingredient to make sure the cosmetic formula does not go wrong too soon. Gently massage onto face, using circular motions. It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Rohto Hada Labo Ultimate Moisturizing Light Lotion: rated 5 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. Has to be combined with other preservatives. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer and even lowers the blood cholesterol. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. A semi-essential (infants cannot synthesize it, but adults can) amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. It is especially recommended for protective, baby care and general purpose emollient creams. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). Chemically speaking, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), however, the ingredients called jojoba esters on the ingredient lists are made from jojoba oil and/or hydrogenated jojoba oil via interesterification. It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. Thanks to all its beneficial components, Purslane Extract has several magic properties: it's a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent and also has wound healing abilities. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does not budge. It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin. Putting collagen on your skin for anti-aging purposes is like throwing tent poles onto a ramshackle tent and expecting the tent to magically become nice and firm again. Super common soothing ingredient. The reason for this is that salt acts as a fantastic thickener in cleansing formulas created with ionic cleansing agents (aka surfactants) such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. HADA LABO Goku-jyun Cream locks in moisture, while enhancing your skin’s natural restorative powers. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. Arbutin Whitening Cream 50g. A natural and sustainable helper ingredient that can improve the absorption of the formula and it also reduces oiliness on the skin. It's a sweet tasting sugar substitute that helps your skin to hold onto water when used in cosmetic products. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead by Steven Q. Wang, MD,  director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. The most common skincare ingredient of all. (We also checked Prospector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. You must go and read our geeky details about it.). What is Super Hyaluronic Acid? Hada Labo Tokyo is a new generation of lightweight and deeply hydrating anti-aging solutions for a beautifully radiant and youthful complexion. Purslane Extract - a traditional Korean medicinal plant with skin-soothing, antioxidant and wound healing abilities. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. Rinse thoroughly. It’s used mainly for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, but according to manufacturer info, it’s also sebum regulating so it'. It can also stabilize foam in cleansing products. Contains: Arbutin – To fight dark spots. And last but not least, when salt is right at the first spot of the ingredient list (and is not dissolved), the product is usually a body scrub where salt is the physical exfoliating agent. No wonder it’s popular. A handy helper ingredient (a polymer, i.e. Arginine usually has a positive charge (cationic) that makes it substantive to skin and hair (those are more negatively charged surfaces) and an excellent film former. The conversion is a 3 step one and looks like this: retinyl palmitate --> retinol -- > retinaldehyde --> all-trans-retinoic acid. EWG scientists reviewed the Hada Labo Gokujyun Lotion (2016 formulation) product label collected on July 02, 2016 for safety according to the methodology outlined in our Skin Deep Cosmetics Database. Sodium Hyaluronate(Large-Size Ha),Sodium Hyaluronate(Nano Ha), Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, pure jojoba oil is also a wax ester (read our shiny explanation here), take a look at more promising derivatives here, As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description, summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here, You can read all about the pure form here, Read all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, It's a helper ingredient that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products, It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer, It has a bad reputation among natural cosmetics advocates but cosmetic scientists and toxicology experts do not agree (read more in the geeky details section), Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. 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